FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT HEATING BOILERS

Make sure the boiler and pipe are clean. Replacement air must enter the boiler room unhindered. Clean the flame monitor and the pipe it is installed on. The reason can also be a worn rotary feeder that lets air into the fire bowl during maintenance, burning away the embers. If the draft in the chimney is poor, you can even smell smoke in the boiler room due to the worn-out rotary feeder.

Check the condition of the rotary feeder. In an intact rotary feeder, all four lamellae reach to grip the walls of the chamber. The rotary feeder is a wearing part that must be replaced every 2-4 years. A lifespan shorter than this is always the result of poor draft in the chimney and/or insufficient air supply to the boiler room. If there is any tar-like formation in the chamber of the rotary feeder, the vacuum hole of the burner from the air box must be opened if necessary. Through the negative pressure hole, excess pressure is driven into the tube of the burner screw, this promotes combustion and prevents heat from moving backwards in the burner.

Instructions for replacing the rotary feeder: Replacement of the rotary feeder

If you want, you can upgrade the burner to chain-driven: BeQuem-20-burner-chain-driven

Vacuum hole check: BeQuem-20 vacuum tube

TIP: Have maintenance done in the spring by an authorized pellet fitter. They will check the condition of the entire heating system. This way you avoid annoying interruptions during the heating season.

You have ordered a chain-driven burner rotary feeder and you are using a cog-driven burner model.

Cog-driven refers to a burner where the chain rotates through three gears. The metering wheel with cogs on the shaft of the rotary feeder transmits power to the metering screw shaft.

A burner in which the chain rotates through all four gears is called chain-driven.

The chain-driven burner is also quiet in operation, while the cog-driven burner makes a clear "squeak" when the device is running.

Rotary feeders also have a difference in handiness depending on the direction of rotation, so if they are installed incorrectly, their service life will be short.

After replacing the control board, the electrical resistance must be reactivated at menu level two. In the "Burner settings" menu, when you press the right arrow key for the first time, "electrical resistors" appears. Use the plus key to set the number three here. Go back to the heating method menu. Now you can choose the one you like best from the different heating options.

You can get to menu level 2 "burner settings" by doing the following:

• Press both arrow keys simultaneously for approx. 5 seconds. The text "Burner settings" appears on the screen. The control unit is now in the burner adjustment menu
• Go forward in the burner adjustment menu by pressing the right arrow key.

Note! If the control keys are not used within eight minutes, the control unit returns to the TEMPERATURE BOILER display mode.

The boiler program compares the actual and target temperature. If the difference is less than eight degrees, the program assumes there are still embers in the burner bowl and performs a warm start. Especially in summer, the boiler may not cool down enough during maintenance.

TIP: During summer maintenance, raise the boiler's target temperature by 10 degrees before turning off the power. By doing this, the temperature difference is already more than eight degrees. After maintenance, the program starts to ignite the burner with the help of the resistor. You can return the temperature to normal as soon as you have turned on the power.

NOTE!! For safety reasons, it would be good to let the boiler cool down according to the user manual for half an hour before starting maintenance procedures.

If the burner screw motor does not get 230V~ voltage, the control board under the boiler's control panel may be damaged (the voltage is about 160-170V~ if the control board is defective). The voltage to the motor should be measured while the motor is running. Start the burner and feed screw motors from the "testing menu" and measure the voltage from the wires coming to the burner motor.

For the ARIMAX 35 boiler, there is a ready-made burner installation kit to replace the fire maintenance hatch (ash hatch) (the boiler's secondary air valves are screwed closed when using pellets).

The Ariterm BQ20 pellet burner is perfectly suited to the boiler and the user experiences have been really positive. The new burner model still has an accumulator heating feature. The charger sensor reads the temperature of the charger, keeping it at the desired temperature (e.g. 70 - 60 degrees). When the charger is in use, the burner always lights up with a cold start program. Embers maintenance program is not in use. In summertime, the burner runs on average once a day for 1.5 to 2 hours at a time.

Changing the heating method is quick to implement, remove the hatch with the bulbs and replace it with the old hatch. Secondary air valves back 1½ turns open.

ORDER THESE PRODUCTS FROM THE PLUMBING STORE:

• Ariterm BQ20 pellet burner, including automation
• feed screw set max. 3 meters in parts
• weekly silo PS 450 liters
• battery sensor and extension cord
• overheat guard
• fire service hatch with Ariterm BQ 20 fitting
• pellets

REMEMBER:

When you have the installation work done by a professional, you can take advantage of the household deduction. A professional fitter will do the conversion work in one day.

Possible causes and corrective measures:

• The boiler temperature is too low.
  

  Adjust the burner thermostat to 80...85°C. Please note that the boiler water thermometer may show a higher value due to boiler water deposition or meter error.

• The hot water mixing valve (e.g. Osydeluxe) is stuck.
  

  In this case, the water comes out warm at first, but gradually cools down. This is because the mixing valve is constantly letting cold water through. Even a slight drop in the temperature of the water coming from the boiler is felt as a cooling of the domestic water. Replace the control valve or replace it with a repair kit.

• The boiler's service water coil or plate heat exchanger is calcified on the inside.
  

  If the boiler has a plate heat exchanger, it can be replaced with a new one. In the case of a spiral boiler, a hot water unit designed for this purpose is installed in connection with the boiler. The boiler coil is left unused, the service water pipes are moved to the service water connections of the hot water unit. Boiler water is connected to circulate through the primary side of the hot water unit, the unit has a pump for this.

• The boiler's internal circulation pump is faulty. (applies to boilers with a plate heat exchanger).
  

  In this case, the domestic water gets cold almost as soon as it starts to be poured from the tap. The pump must be repaired or replaced with a new one.

Possible causes and corrective measures:

• The supply of combustion air to the boiler room is insufficient.
  

  The combustion air opening is checked and, if necessary, enlarged to match the measurement given in the installation and operating instructions. Make sure there are no obstacles in front of the combustion air opening. (grill, thermal insulation)

• The boiler's convection ducts, the connecting pipe between the boiler and the chimney or the flue itself is partially blocked.
  

  Clean the boiler and the chimney connection pipe. The chimney will be sweeped.

• A leak in the flue pipe or in the connection between the boiler and the chimney, which causes insufficient negative pressure for the boiler’s firebox. The sweeping hatch can be open.
  

  Seal the leakage points. Close the open sweeping hatches.

• The fire bricks inside the boiler are out of place or broken.
  

  Check that the bricks are correctly in place. Get and install new bricks in place of the broken ones.

• Boiler temperature or return water temperature is too low. In this case, combustion weakens and the temperature of the flue gases decreases. Together, these significantly reduce the draft in the flue pipe.
  

  Set the burner thermostat to 80°C (oil and pellet boilers). Make sure that the pipe returning from the accumulator to the boiler has the right type of mixing valve (e.g. Laddomat 21). Give more air to the combustion by adjusting the draft valve of the boiler to a larger one (valve boilers).

• Firewood is not dry. In this case, the water contained in the trees evaporates, which increases the amount of flue gas and lowers the combustion temperature.
  

  Use only dry firewood. (Humidity max approx. 20%).

Possible causes and corrective measures:

• In the ash box, the surface of the ash rises to the bottom surface of the grate.
  

  The cooling of the central area of the grate is prevented. In just a few months, a large opening can appear in the middle of the grate. Empty the ash box in time.

• There are nails in the firewood that block the slots in the grate.
  

  Cooling is prevented, the service life of the grate is shortened. Use only non-nailed trees.

• Chipboard or other artificial material is burned in the boiler.
  

  "Fuels" containing glue, varnish and other extra substances heat up the grate and boiler structures too much. Use only wood.

Possible causes and corrective measures:

After the installation of the heating equipment, air is removed from it for several weeks and the pressure drops. This is normal, but if the drop in pressure does not stop, the following may be the cause:

• The pre-pressure of the diaphragm expansion tank has escaped.
  

  Measure the pre-pressure from the air valve of the expansion tank with a car tire pressure gauge. Add air if necessary. A suitable pre-pressure before the start of the heating cycle is usually 0.5 bar.

• The membrane of the diaphragm expansion tank is punctured.
  

  Water comes out of the air valve of the diaphragm expansion tank when the valve is pressed open. The expansion tank must be renewed.

• Diaphragm expansion tank is too small.
  

  In this case, the pressure rises so high (1.5 bar) at the end of the heating cycle that the safety valve lets water out of the system. as the boiler and/or storage tank cools down, the pressure drops to zero. A larger or additional membrane expansion tank must be installed.

• Leak in the boiler or heating network.
  

  Check all visible places for moisture. If the boiler has a leak on the fire side, the water evaporates and the leak is difficult to detect. Check if there is excess water vapor coming from the chimney and if there is moisture in the ash. Close the shut-off valves between the boiler and the network and perform a pressure test on the boiler. Keep the boiler at an even temperature. As the temperature drops, so does the pressure. If the temperature and pressure of the boiler remain unchanged, the leak must be looked for on the network side. A plumber is needed for these procedures.